Doubtless Bay

I have been waiting to catch up to to this part of our trip as there were several events and places we experienced were just awesome. But first, just a little bit about that day's journey which started with a visit to the physiotherapist. Alyse was recommended to us by the owner of the camp ground we were staying in. He related that there was a man that drove the several hours from Aukland on a regular basis to her since her recent move to Whangerai. Although my mother was a physiotherapist up until this day I had never seen one professionally. Back (way back) when my brothers and I were young boys we thought it hilarious that one of her young patients had dubbed her 'the torture lady'. Today I got an inkling of how this name was earned. The examination and explanation of what was happening to me was done very efficiently. She provided me with many practical suggestions, both short and long term on how to manage. Then she offered to do a treatment to try and relax some of the muscles that had been causing me so much grief. Notice I said treatment and not massage. When I think massage I think of a very pleasant time with someone's warm hands gliding about my anointed body causing pleasurable feelings wherever they go (the hands, I mean). While this treatment began with warm hands and (unscented) lubricant, it was as if her fingers were made of steel. Needless to say, she knew exactly what muscles needed stimulation and I did my very best to stay relaxed and compliant thinking I'd much sooner endure this short term pain if it helped relieve the constant aches and pains. The fact that I am sitting here now recounting these torturous few minutes is testament to the fact that I did endure and, low & behold, was able to bend and stretch to a much greater degree than I could before. While I will return to my doctor for more trigger point therapy, I also plan to visit a physio when we get home.

It would be hard to keep your eye on the ball on this golf course

Now, on to Doubtless Bay which is further up the eastern coast and right at the base of the Aupori Peninsula which ends at Cape Reinga. Legend has it that the first men to discover New Zealand were Polynesians who landed in Doubtless Bay around 950AD. archeologists will tell you that based on Maori middens and carbon dating etc. they believe the first settlements were around 1300 but in any event all seem to agree it was in Doubtless Bay that it all began. This part of the coast is a fisher's paradise and on the drive up Julie and I had visions of fresh snapper for dinner that night. Knowing that the community we were staying in (Whatawhiwhi - pronounced fah tah FEE fee) was tiny and Mauri we decided to stop in the village of Mangonui to provision ourselves and to acquire that lovely piece of fresh fish with our name on it. We parked and walked along the charming street and soon spied a shop advising 'fresh fish takeaway'. However, this was essentially a fish & chip shop and while they were prepared to sell us some of their snapper the price was going to be outrageous. This was understandable as they wanted to sell us fish'n'chips, not uncooked fillets. They suggested we try the Four Square which was one the the NZ grocery chains. Mangonui being tiny, so was the grocery store and the only thing really fresh was the breeze. When we asked the sales clerk where we might find some fresh fish to buy her response was, "I dunno. We catch our own and never have to buy any". Same answer at another little shop and by now we were starting to despair. However, as luck would have it in the next little village called Coopers Bay we found a little shop with our fresh fish in it and thusly provisioned we headed for that night's accommodation discussing the various cooking options we might employ. When we arrived the cabin we were in and it's magnificent view of Doubtless Bay delayed our dinner a bit as we just had to sit and savour a wee dram sitting on our balcony.

Room with a view (of Doubtless Bay)

The fish, a delicate whitefish lived up to our imagination. We used Dave's method - dipped in egg and crushed crackers and pan fried. The only issue was the crackers. We did not have saltines or anything so compliant. Neither did we have a rolling pin or anything that would quickly render the tough little numbers we had to the desired consistency but after much pounding with the butt end of a wooden spoon and several plastic bags the task was completed. That evening we walked a bit on the beach and gazed up at the stars, trying in vain to locate the famous Southern Cross constellation marveling all the same at the beauty of the night sky. The Milky Way seems to fill half the sky and with so little light or air pollution the dome of twinkling stars is truly magnificent. That night we drifted off to sleep full of anticipation for the days to come in this amazing country.