Matamata. - part 2

We were grateful to stay put in the same place for three nights in a row, in part because it gave Julie & me time to contemplate the next part of our journey and provision ourselves accordingly. On the south island we were completely self contained in our campervan. We had beds, we had a fridge, a hob, a (tiny) oven, a toaster, dishes, cutlery, bowls, a kitchen sink, a toilet, a shower, even a driver. For the north island and sans Kim and sans campervan, we would have only our Toyota Sunny and ourselves. We were by now over two weeks in and still neither Julie nor I had sat behind the wheel but the was oohing for it now but to dive in. I am happy and relieved to report that this first venture onto to wrong side of the road went without a hitch as long as you don't count repeated use of the windshield washers instead of the turn signal indicators on our inaugural voyage into Matamata. High on the list of things to acquire was a 'chilli bin' so as to keep our food provisions cold. OK, I admit that pretty much from the moment we bought it it would also contain the odd beer or three. Any of you who have ever gone camping with us know how masterfully Julie can pack a cooler and so hats off to her, we have never gone hungry or thirsty since that day. We have had the occasional restaurant meal but for the most part have been making or cooking our own food. There will be more on this topic in subsequent entries. That first day at the base I don't think we saw Kim at all other than at the communal lunch and dinner. The leadership group were prepping for the arrival of their students which was only a few days away. On day two Julie and I set off for Rotorua where we took in a sheep show. Yes, a sheep show.

"who are you?" they asked, sheepishly.

While very 'touristic', it was great as on display were around 20 different types of sheep. The qualities of each breed were explained as were the herding methods that different dog breeds employ. There was of course a gift shop with all manner of wool products and I am relieved to say that so great was the sticker shock that we came out with only a few skeins of wool and a couple of tea towels (not wool). For our final evening with Kim we invited her and the rest of the leadership team to join us for dinner - not just any dinner - a pastie dinner. We'd show those kiwis what meat pies are all about! It was a great success. All of the team are twenty-somethings not lacking for appetites and so the pasties were dispatched with gusto and good fellowship. Julie and I said our farewells to Kim later that night and we are greatly comforted in the knowledge that she is part of a loving and caring group who have dedicated themselves to the betterment of mankind.

Matamata - part 1

Matamata's biggest claim to fame as far as we are concerned is not that the Hobbiton set (where much of the Lord of the Rings trilogy was filmed) is nearby, rather this has been home for Kim for the last 16 months or so. Her Youth With a Mission base is located about 15 minutes outside of Matamata at a place called Crystal Springs. It is in a beautiful rural setting several acres in size which runs down to a small river along one side and farmer's fields on the other. Before the YWAM organization acquired the property it had been a hot springs resort with a giant outdoor pool filled by the thermal waters. However, disaster struck when the river flooded its banks one year contaminating the pool which ended up causing serious illness and a few deaths. It's not hard to figure out what happened to the spa resort. I digress. This is supposed to be a happy story, but as we all know, we cannot experience happy without knowing about sad. Speaking of happy, I just paused momentarily to indulge in a TimTam Slam. A TimTam is a chocolate covered biscuit, rectangular in shape. To do a slam you need a mug of tea and it has to be pretty much full. Step one is to take a very small bite on diagonal corners. Step two is to use it like straw and suck the tea into you mouth. With the tea being hot, and the TimTam being chocolaty with a very fragile wafer in the interior, it begins to collapse what with the heat and wetness of the tea. As a result you need to shove the entire biscuit, which is heavy with tea, melting chocolate and wafer into your mouth immediately (the slam).  If you don't, you have a gooey mess in your fingers and in your tea.  Once you get it right it is heaven in a biscuit. But I digress. This blog entry is supposed to be about Matamata and so I will try to restrict these comments accordingly. Julie and I spent three nights there and it was great to do so as in the past 14 days we had stayed in the same place for more than one night only once, so we were really ready for this change of pace. We knew that Kim would be immediately pulled into her duties and so I have to say that our emotions were high that day. We had had a wonderful time, just the three of us and our arrival at the base was an ending to this joyous time. This was, in retrospect, OK because we immediately saw how happy she was to be there and we saw how warmly she was greeted by all the staff. I think we already knew she was in a good space and a good place, but to see the physical space and to meet and greet the people that up until then were only characters in her narrative really brought it home. But we were right - from the moment we arrived she was off 'doing her thing' and we were left largely to our own devices. This was OK and was in fact a good transition (or weaning) period as we would still enjoy a few Kim encounters each day. We also had the chance to get to know many of the people Kim is working with which was great and it was really interesting to hear the stories of how these people from so many walks of life heard and answered a calling to serve. But again I digress. We still didn't have to do a final goodbye as we will be back in Matamata for our last night in New Zealand and so our departure from the camp was really not that tough - at least nobody cried.

Napier

We had a good start out of Wellington heading for that night's destination: Napier. Our route took us through the small rural community of Masterton and along the highway we saw a sign advertising the fact that this being Saturday their annual A&P show was opening. A&P you ask? Agricultural & Pastoral. I will remind my readers that our darling daughter is a farrier by trade and as there were really no lunch stops planned and as it was nearing lunchtime and as we saw Kim's eyes light up at the thought of a farm show, we decided to go. It was a treat. The was horse flesh a'plenty. Dressage, hunter jumpers, pony shows. You don't often see six-year-olds dressed in top hat & tails but in just one ring we saw several. In a room under the grandstand the winners of all the different craft competitions were proudly on display - all behind one form of barrier or another so as to prevent theft. After all, on display was the cream of the crop in many, many categories. Knitting alone there was a dozen different categories: babies clothes, sweaters, spun, dyed & knit (ie make your own wool).

Competition in this category - creative food art - was fierce

In the photography section there was a category for nature, animals, sunsets, people, artistic. Then there were the most heavily protected: the cakes, pies, cookies and other edible confections. There were several categories, a men's competition, children's and open. Then there were the veggies. You name the veg, and there they were, 1st, 2nd & 3rd and often the honorable mentions. Lunch ended up being a wiener on a piece of white bread (no hotdog buns unless it is advertised as an American hotdog) washed down with some home made lemonade. There were hundreds of people there and the portable Ferris wheel and the other rides were doing a booming business. After walking through the sheep sheds and the pig pens we looked for where the sheep shearing competition was to be held but were disappointed to learn this was on the Sunday agenda. And so with many miles still to go we headed back to our car to continue on to Napier only to encounter a festival of a different but equally exuberant kind - Art Deco Days. Back in 1931 this seaside town was leveled by a massive earthquake. The downtown core was rebuilt over the next two years and so most of the town's building are in this particular style. The are dozens of events over a period of a week or so, all celebrating the thirties. Everyone dresses in period costumes, everyone except the tourists who happen to be in town more or less accidentally. However, you will be relieved to know that our host for that evening had a remedy for us all. Kim would have nothing to do with this. Julie consented to wearing some kind of a hat. Yours truly however, was decked out from head to foot in clothes that almost fit. We had a great time wandering the streets listening to different street bands belting out music from the twenties and thirties. Thousands of Men, women and children most dressed in all manner of costumes roamed the streets and the waterfront. It was great.

We packed right for Art Deco Days in Napier

Unfortunately the three of us were so bagged from a hot sunny afternoon in Masterton that we headed back to our B&B around nine. We got a great feel for Napier. It was clear that the entire community got behind this event and enjoyed themselves to the utmost.

Wellington

I will sum up this day first and say that the journey from Christchurch to Wellington was quite simply spectacular. While it started a little earlier than we might have preferred (taxi to the train station at 6:00AM) the 5 hour train ride to Picton in the morning followed by the 3 hour ferry crossing of Cook Strait to Wellington was a day filled with amazing scenery whilst traveling in comfort and style. The train known as the intercoastal is very modern.

The huge windows were also very clean for this journey. 

Comfortable seats with large and spotlessly clean windows, there were four passenger cars, a food services car and then at the rear an open air car with no seats, just handrails along the edge and large signs warning you not to stick heads or arms out. I watched one tourist get his camera slapped out of his grip by a tree branch. The route to Picton took us up the east coast of the island and for several hours the only thing between us and the ocean was the beach, sometimes sandy, sometimes rocky. There was one section where we could see dolphins making there way northwards. While they were a fair distance out (second time I regretted leaving my telephoto lens at home) it was thrilling to watch them leap out of the water and see the sun glisten on their bodies. This spectacle carried on for maybe 15 minutes or so and I'm guessing that there were perhaps a hundred or so. Next up on the wildlife agenda were seals, sunning themselves on the jet-black rocks scattered along the shore. It was awesome to see these wild creatures and in such abundance. (later you will hear about our very up close and personal encounter we had along a beach but to tell you now I would be jumping ahead by 10 days so I will simply leave this teaser at this point and board the train once more). The train departed at 7:00 and the food services car opened for business at 7:30. As it happened, there were a group of six couples sitting towards the rear of our car who obviously knew each other well. Not long after the food services car opened at 7:30 we watched a steady procession of this group going forward and returning, not with food, ( they had packed their own) but with beer, wine, vodka coolers, etc. such that by 10:00 AM this group had a collective head of steam that was exceeded only by the train itself. My readers will not be surprised to learn that it was Julie who learned that this was a gambling club heading to Picton for the weekend to engage in club activities. Once off the train we only had about 90 minutes before the ferry departed. We of course had all our baggage but did not have to worry about transferring it as this was done for us as Julie had purchased a combined train and ferry passage. This was a very nice touch and allowed us to wander a bit about town.

We have only a short time in Picton before the ferry departs

The ferry crossing was quite expensive compared to BC Ferries but the vessel itself was significantly larger. It was not a flat hulled ferry like ours and we understood why once we got our into Cook Strait. We had a calm day for the crossing to Wellington which was a rare event we learned later. Our host that evening informed us that in 2011 Wellington experienced something like 230 days of gale force winds. Even on this gentle day you could feel the swell. Anyway, once again we enjoyed stunning views of coastline and ocean of great beauty. We arrived in Wellington about 4:30 or so and after retrieving of luggage took a taxi to our hotel located in the downtown area. Nearby we found a Vietnamese restaurant which served up excellent pho. We then explored the waterfront area and downtown core which was alive with people out strolling, eating, pubbing or shopping. Tired but happy from the events of a wonderful day we returned to our hotel and the grateful embrace of our beds.

Wellington NZ

Christchurch, revisited

February 16th brought both beginnings and endings. I'll begin with an ending which was the end of our campervan sojourn. Yes, by 4:00 pm we needed to turn this rolling home back to where we started. Our circuit ended up being almost 2,400 km and our Kim was was behind the wheel for every single one of them. Except for the very first day out yours truly spent all of those hours largely in a prone position alternately entranced by the scenery and my book. Julie, in the co-pilots seat was chief navigator but I think her greatest joy was the hours and hours of mother daughter time over the ten days we shared together.

Lighter than air!

There was a lot of talk but also a lot of companionable silence. Kim enjoyed her time away from her YWAM responsibilities and loved simply being a daughter and not the person everyone else depended on. Having said this, we watched her excitement grow as her return to Crystal Springs and the beginning of a new term grew nearer. Julie and I were also feeling this looming parting but with different emotions. Yes, it was going to be an ending, but also a beginning. The beginning of 3 weeks where Julie and I would be holidaying on our own. Not that we had not relished every moment, but after all, we chose each other. Kim was a gift. The other beginning was the beginning of my seventh decade arriving one day early given the whim of circumstance and other planetary considerations. After a successful Skype call with Blake, Lauren, Molly & Stu the three of us walked to a restaurant nearby and enjoyed a fine meal washed down with a bottle of champagne, which we brought with us to the restaurant. It was a fine send off to my three-score self. What with emails from friends and time with family I felt much loved. Feb 16 was also the end of our days on the South island as bright and early the next day we would board the train for Picton and then hop the ferry that would take us to Wellington which was to be our entry to the north island. Endings and beginnings.
  Beginnings and endings.

Timaru

We spent the morning exploring Dunedin. A visit to the train station is mandatory, a delightful renaissance-style building.

Duneden Train Station was full of photographers but not too many train passengers

It was coolish that morning and there was a wedding couple having a photo shoot out on the platform. The bride looked so cold she was almost blue in her sleeveless gown but it was clear that never the photographer nor the groom was going to relent. We wandered about the downtown area, did a bit of shopping which included a trip to a Cadbury's chocolate factory and then enjoyed a flat white at a Starbucks. On the way out of town we looked at but did not attempt to drive on the steepest road in the world (as sanctified by the Guiness book). As I recall the rise was 1:2.87. It was very steep and would be the perfect setting for long boarders interested in trying to break existing land speed records. Our lunch stop that day was at the Moeraki Boulders Scenic Reserve. Almost perfectly spherical with some of the larger ones with a circumference of maybe 15 feet, these boulders are clustered along a small stretch of yet another amazing beach. I won't get into how they were formed, nor the Maori legends about them, but both of these ancient tales are fascinating.

The Moeraki Boulders are in one small section of the beach

The main reason for choosing Timaru as a destination was to have a visit with one of Stu's cousins, Caryl and her husband Graham. We had been in touch via email and the plan was to arrive late afternoon for a tour of the farm followed by tea. Their place is situated perhaps 30kms or so west of Timaru in an area of beatuiful rolling hills. Up to that point the GPS system on our iPad had not failed us and so after lunch we confidently input their address and set off. Our route took us off the main hiway well south of Timaru and we stated to climb into the hills. We were not overly concerned when the seal turned into gravel roads that seemed to get narrower & narrower and bumpier and bumpier. At one point we were driving along and noted a road sign with a large exclamation point on it and then around the corner the road dipped down and proceeded through a river. Not over a river - there was no bridge - you had to ford the river if you wanted to cross. Now when I say river I am probably exaggerating a little but from one bank to the other was maybe 30 or 40 feet and when we got out to have a closer look there was a foot or more of water rushing across which was creating a very pleasant little waterfall on the downstream side. Kim was all set the ford the river. Julie was not. While it was clear the ford was used regularly there was no evidence that it had been used recently as the gravel road was completely dry on both sides. Was this because the volume of water was too high at the moment and the locals knew better? Not having much experience fording rivers we decided to err on the side of caution even though this was going to make us late. All I could think about was the phonecall to the campervan rental company: "uh, hello, your vehicle is currently just downstream from a ford up the hills behind Timaru. We seem to have flooded the engine and can't get it started. Please help."

A river runs through it and over it

We learned later from Graham that although the water was a bit high we would have been fine. Anyway, we finally arrived at the farm and had a delightful visit with Caryl and Graham. Tea turned out to be a roast leg of lamb with all the trimmings. The smell of the roast pervaded the house and the yard and was amazing as was the meal itself. The evening flew by. We were assured that there were no more fords to cross on the route to Timaru and the trip to our campsite was uneventful.

Dunedin

Today is Tuesday, Feb 14th and with our destination not that far distance-wise we decided to Get off the main road (such as it is) and instead travel closer to the water and explore the Catlins. Our first stop that day was Curio Bay, a beautiful spot where the fossilized remains of a Jurassic forest is laid bare at low tide on a rock shelf jutting out to sea. Yes, it was low tide and the fossilized tree trunks and other bits of interesting stuff was clearly visible.

Not out of the woods quite yet

The only thing was, the people who had descended the path onto this rock shelf were not examining the rocks, they were all turned with their backs to the stunning ocean views peering into the underbrush above the high hide mark.

Penguin watching

Huh? What was so interesting that they could turn their backs on such a marvel? The answer is penguins. Apparently the rarest of species, these Yellow-eyed penguins can only be found along this coast. While most of the colony were out a sea a few that were moulting remained on shore, much to the delight of the tourists. As nesting was beginning this area would be closed each evening so as the penguins could return to their nesting sites without having to strike poses for the visitors. This is the only time so far that I have regretted not bringing my zoom lense as the photos I have simply do not have the drama or excitement we felt seeing these odd creatures in a natural setting.

A shy, Yellow Eyed Penguin

From there we continued to twist and turn our way along the coast and decided to head for Nugget Point for our lunch. The day before we had bought three of Jimmie's Pies. I will not disclose how many grams of fat each one of these little gems contained but we were told you cannot visit New Zealand without sampling the meat pies. We had three different varieties: mince, mutton & bacon and egg. But, back to Nugget Point, as it and not the pies was the highlight for lunch. There is a lighthouse perched high on a headland overlooking a series of pinnacle-like rocks marching out to sea. Far below the cliffs you could hear the seals barking. The path from the parking lot to lighthouse was not precarious however you would tumble to your death on the rocks far below should you lose your balance reaching to pluck a wildflower or some other romantic notion that came into your head.

Nugget Point Lighthouse

We all survived and while Kim & Julie made it all the way to the lighthouse I satisfied myself with glimpses of it before heading back to the campervan to contemplate the pies. I was not surprised to read that the New Zealand Medical Journal has blacklisted pies, along with 48 other foods that people should try to avoid unless they seek obesity. Having said this, I have to admit that Jimmie makes a mean pie.

Invercargill

This is going to be my third (and final) attempt to describe the events of the day we traveled to Invercargill. The previous two attempts simply vanished when our wifi link coughed. Couldn't even find an auto saved file. Twice. And I have to say I was rather pleased with both attempts. I did not react with equanimity. However, I didn't break anything. OK, here we go again. I am hoping there is truth to the 'third time lucky' adage. While Invercargill is the southernmost city there is another community further south called Bluff and it was here we decided to make our first stop. The Stewart Island ferry departs from there and while I had been warned about the bone-jarring passage in rough weather it was a fine, sunny day with only a light breeze. I had already made up my mind that I was not going to chance it in any event and as it turned out we were too late to go that day. Thus we carried on down the road to the ocean facing side of Bluff where we were able to park and enjoy an incredible view out to sea. Bluff itself is well named. As we approach from the north side the community hugs a lagoon and protected harbor with houses rising up the gentle slope of a single large hump of land. However, when you get around to the ocean side this large hump of land, I'm guessing 250 meters high or so, drops precipitously into the ocean. Where the road ended a walking path began.

Looking back to where the road ends at Bluff

By now Kim was handling our campervan as if it were a smart car and after neatly backing into tight quarters we set off down the path. The view was really something. A sunny clear sky with Stewart Island out towards the horizon, blue green waters with waves crashing into the rocky shore and the kelp moving in and out of the rocks at the mercy of the wave action. Seagulls, which were bountiful we're either riding the thermals near the bluffs or swarming the fishing boats that were heading back to port. I think I made it maybe half a kilometer down the trail before my back told me it was time to about face but the girls carried on a bit further. We were all feeling a bit peckish when they returned and while we had provisions in the campervan there was a restaurant just up the hill a bit with huge windows facing out to sea. It was not hard to decide that we wanted to be sitting there, perhaps quaffing an ale and gazing out to sea some more.

Room with a View

It wasn't going to matter what was on the menu but we were all hoping there might be a bit of seafood. There was. Both Kim and Julie ordered blue cod and while we were a bit too early for oyster season I opted for the mussels which were harvested from Stewart island. I chose the tomato basil broth. OMB! They were amazing! The species here is known as green lipped mussels, and, true to their name, there is a brilliant band of green along the edge of the shell. While the shells seemed similar in size to our local mussels the meat was twice the volume. I have no hesitation in stating that these were the tastiest mussels I have had for at least 35 years.

Green-lipped Mussels are to die for

I can't say ever thanks to my brother Mark, who on our very first visit to Long Beach so many years ago took us to a spot where we harvested our own mussels and then cooked them in wine and garlic in a cauldron over an open fire on the beach. (time may have shaded some of the details of this event but it is one of those magical memories I treasure) Well sated we headed back through Invercargill to that night's trailer park which was truly a piece of work. Unlike the Top 10 locations we had been staying at, this one catered not only to tourists but also to quite a few permanent residents who no doubt parked their ah, trailers many years ago and it is clear they will never see the open road again. Some were very funky. Others had large dogs chained up in front. I took a few furtive photos which I will share later.

Wallacetown

Reflected glory

Queenstown is New Zealand's adventure city. Just name your outdoor thrill and you will very likely be able to indulge it here. Skydiving,parasailing, bungee jumping, hiking,climbing, four-wheeling, Quads, trikes, ziplining, waterskiing, boogie boarding, jet boating, caving and the list goes on. We got mixed reviews from many kiwi's (from other parts) who were concerned that Queenstown had grown beyond all recognition and with so many pubs and taverns was now simply an adventure tourist destination. One of the games played In town is 'spot the kiwi' given that there so few relative to the out of country thrill seekers that worked in the shops so as to support their particular addictions. It was a lot like Whistler. While Kim and Julie did a bit of shopping, yours truly was parked in a chair on a field where the hang gliders came in for a landing. Once down the guides would pack up the chutes and then walk to the gondola for a quick ride up to latch onto the next customer.

Another smooth landing

The setting for this town was awesome. Nestled along the shores of Lake Wakatipu with the Remarkables mountain range rising all around it was really very special. The ambulatory ones rode up the gondola and returned with some stunning photos of the Remarkables marching off in the distance. Down on the water the jet boats were jetting and in the air the para gliders, sky divers & ultralights seemed to jostle for position. Back in the campervan by early afternoon we continued heading south with Invcargill as our destination. Enroute however, Wallacetown was the hometown of a friend of Kim's, Lydia, who had invited us to stop for a visit and spend the night at their home, which we were only too happy to do. Enroute we again pulled over to prepare a meal. This time it was beside a very pleasant country cemetery (they always have the best views). The cows and the sheep in the nearby fields were very curious and I expect they were relieved when they realized we were having chicken that night.

Queenstown

On the road to Queenstown

It's confession time: I am woefully behind in my journal entries. We departed from Hokitika for Queenstown on Saturday Feb 11th. Way back then I was still only 59 years old, although now that I think of it I felt much, much older then than I do at this moment, which, chronologically makes me 11 days - and one big birthday - older than I was for the day I am about to recount. How is this possible, you ask? Well it's quite simple really. Eleven days ago I recall being grateful for the fact that our assigned site in the campground was only one site away from the showers which meant I would only have to walk about 15 meters or so. Yes, there was a shower in our campervan but it was such a small space I was not sure I would be able to do it without twisting, pretzel-like, thereby causing further pain & injury. Today, in contrast, Julie & I walked from our campsite into Whangarei's (feng air RAY - and you have to roll the r) Town Basin, a two hour return trip. OK, back to the day at hand, which is an excellent illustration of the astonishingly rapid changes in topography in this country.

Lot's of photo ops along the road

As I recall (and yes, after 11 days my recall is not always spot on) we left our beachfront campsite maybe 9ish and by 11 or so we were viewing the Franz Josef glacier, high in the Southern Alps. OK, I personally did not view the glacier because it was too far for me to walk, but Kim & Julie did and they have the photos to prove it. Still too early for lunch we decided to press on to Lake Matheson, promoted as a beautiful alpine lake with Mount Cook in the background and one of the most photographed lakes in all of New Zealand. Perhaps so, but not by us given that it was a 20 minute walk to get your first glimpse of the lake and close to an hour if you want to get your feet wet. Still, we had a delightful lunch in our campervan, parked in the Lake Matheson parking lot only steps away from the wheel chair accessible toilet. Anyone watching me hobble over would have felt I was entitled so I was not embarrassed in the least. Back in our van we continued to head south along Hwy 6 with Queenstown as our destination. The road and scenery through this mountainous region was stunning, to say the least. We hugged the shores of Lake Wanaka and then Lake Hawea for what seemed like hours and for all that time did not see a boat or even a cabin lining the shores. Try to picture Lake Okanagan with no Kelowna, no boats, no nothing along the shores but beach, trees and mountains and you can start to get the feeling. By this time it was after 6 & we were all starting to feel a bit peckish. One of the joys of being in camper van is that you are completely self contained and so when you want to cook a meal, you simply pull over and get to it. Suddenly we were bouncing along a very pot-holed dirt track that took us to the shores of Lake Dunstan. There we enjoyed a fine omelette washed down with a Monteith's summer ale whilst listening to the wind teasing the trees and the sun dancing on the waves. If it wasn't for the traffic jam caused by the conclusion of the Doobie Brothers outdoor concert we would have entered Queenstown around the same time as the sun made its glorious exit.

View of Queenstown from the top of the Skyline Gondola

As it was, we were an extra hour or so as the police breathalyzed the hundreds of drivers. It was like they were waiting for that Mississippi moon to be shining it's light on us. The water of Lake Wakatipu was indeed blackwater by the time we saw it.

Where to next?

Hokitika

From Motueka which is at the northern end of the south island along Tasman Bay we headed southwest with the objective of getting to the west coast to then journey south along hwy 6 towards the southern Alps. The roads are largely two lane, twisting and turning with no shoulder to speak of. Passing lanes are infrequent but slower vehicles are given the opportunity to pull over to the side to allow faster traffic to pass by. These are needed as there was seldom the opportunity to see far enough ahead to know it was safe to pass. This trip took place on Friday Feb 10th and while I was still not able to comfortably stay in a sitting position, my horizons were expanding beyond the confines of my own body and our campervan turned out to be the perfect vessel to make it possible to do this in comfort. Lying on my back with my head propped up a bit I was able to see out the back window which was very large and thus was able to watch in comfort as the miles spooled out behind.

Sometimes it was enough to just admire my toes

 The road could be a bit rough at times and while Kim was being as careful as she could to minimize the affects of the bumps I assured her that those brief moments of weightlessness were sufficient compensation for the extra g-forces I would experience as the van rose up to claim me again. Had I been upright these could have been spine destroying. In any event, it is difficult to describe the ever-changing landscape without the aid of a few photos (I have them but still haven't sorted out why I can't upload). Changes in landscape and topography are rapid. It seemed like one minute were were driving along an arid plain and then the next minute would be driving through dense jungle then the next through treeless hills and valleys.

 Despite hours in the van we never tired of the scenery as it changed so quickly and so often. Once reaching the coast the road hugs the ocean and for miles and miles we saw nothing but waves & deserted beaches.

Looking north towards Cape Foulwind on the Tasman Sea

Sunset was approaching as we neared a place called Hokitika and so decided to spend the night there. Kim had returned from India with some curry spices and so that night we enjoyed a lamb curry. Mmmm. The beach was perhaps 100 meters away and the muffled thump of the breakers seemed to help lull us to sleep after a long day's drive.

Motueka

I'd like to tell you what the road was like between Hanmer Springs and Motueka (moe two EEK ah) but I can't given that I was stretched out on my back simply enduring. Enroute Julie had made contact with the friends we were planning to visit and managed to arrange for me to see a doctor when we arrived.

Kim at the wheel

This blessed person assured me I was not in any terminal state, merely experiencing a bit of a pinched nerve. Nothing that an anti-inflammatory and some pain killers couldn't help. We spent two nights in Motueka. The biggest event for me and my proudest achievement during those two days was getting from the campervan to the showers - and back - unassisted, all clean and shaved (well mostly). While Julie & Kim were perhaps not quite as exuberant as I was, I know they were happy and relieved that the meds were starting to put me on the road to recovery. As I write this passage ten days have elapsed since then and I still don't feel ready to head out on long tramps.  I am able to join Kim & Julie for more than just the 100 meters or so of my initial hobbles. Now, back to Motueka. 

There were actually two different friends we dined with that first evening.

Julie & Kim prepping dinner in the campervan

Margaret, from Cornwall, stayed with Julie's family when visiting Canada back in the '60's. She and her partner John have recently bought a summer place in NZ nearby. Jack hired Julie way back in the late '80's when his company won its first national EAP contract and was recruiting manage staff to establish western operations. When he sold Corporate Health Consultants mid nineties he and his partner moved to NZ. The six (I was still not feeling too sociable) had a wonderful pot-luck dinner under the stars that night and the following day Julie, Kim, John & Margaret went on an all-day hike. Meanwhile I was able to get deep into book 2 of Game of Thrones.

Hanmer Springs

The following morning a cab arrived at the crack of 9:00 to take the three of us to Kea Campers where we were to pick up our camper van. Our trim little 20 footer is quite new with something like 20,000 km on the odometer. Shower, toilet, microwave, cooktop, TV, stereo system, 6 speed standard transmission. We might be turtles, but, man, we would travel in style!

Our KEA Campervan was great

After our orientation it was quickly decided that Kim would take the first shift given that Dad's back was still acting up a bit and in any event, Kim was keen to drive. After a provisioning trip to the grocery store we finally left the city heading northwest towards Hanmer Springs as our first night's destination. Our first stop enroute was for a picnic lunch and as Hwy 1 ran close to the ocean we decided it would be nice to have a view of same as we had yet to have even a glimpse. Waikuku Beach, perhaps 45 minutes from Christchurch, rivaled Long Beach in length and beauty and despite being a lovely sunny day was almost deserted, save for the surf club lifeguard and ourselves. Did I say sunny? Julie managed to burn the tops of her feet - the only exposed parts she forgot about - in the twenty minutes or so that we lingered, munching our sandwiches and gazing transfixed at the crashing surf and sea birds riding the wind.

Waikuku Beach is only a few km north of Christchurch

If it hadn't been so soon after the start of our adventure we would have stayed longer. Back in the camper van we set off again getting the feel of the road. Once we left the main hwy to head in a more westerly direction, the road, a shoulderless two lane track started winding, twisting and turning through lovely rural landscapes. The sky was blue, the traffic was light, we were with our Kim, and life could not get much better. Well except for the rising discomfort pulsing from my lower back. Hammer Springs is a natural hot springs and our campsite - a Top 10 - was less than a kilometer away (800 meters according to our host). The facility had perhaps 10 different pools one could choose from, all with varying temperatures. Some were adult only, some were therapeutic and it was all very nicely laid out. You had to pay extra for the waterslide so we didn't. Not wanting to take any valuables with us to the pools I put $40.00 in my pocket thinking this would be ample however this proved a mistake as the tariff per adult was $17.00. Our darling daughter volunteered to go back to the campsite and wisely drove the van to the pool. I say wisely because by this time I was having considerable difficulty walking as the level of pain kept rising with each step. Gratefully I hobbled to it and laid down on the back bench. I have experienced back pain before, but never like this. Needless to say, both Julie & Kim were very distressed to see me like this. I tried observing the pain but could not even observe my breath so consuming it was. Kim prayed for me and Julie fed me more Tylenol. Finally I gained control or at least I was able to converse rather than focus solely on this agony within that radiated and invaded into every moment and every thought. I think it was at this point that I consented that it might not be a bad idea to see a doctor the following day. Sleep did not come easily that night, but it did come in fits and starts. Ah, the joys of travel.

Christchurch

I have to say it was difficult as we inched our way towards the customs official. As if a thirteen hour flight was not enough it was looking like it would be another hour or more standing in line. Perhaps it wasn't an hour but it sure felt like it. However, all the interminable waiting was forgotten the instant we spied our Kim and the fierce embrace that shortly ensued. All this and it was only 6:00 AM. After a short flight from Auckland down to Christchurch and an early check in at our hotel we set off to wander about the city. As I recall it was around this time that I realized that an uninvited and unwanted visitor had decided to join our merry threesome - but more about this later. First I want to say a little bit about Christchurch. The city is now defined by it's different color zones - green zones, blue zones, yellow zones and the worst of them being the red zones. Red zones contain buildings that are either beyond repair or are in an area where it is still unsafe to enter. There are several residential area where homes have been purchased by the government. These subdivisions will be razed, never to be built upon again. There were lots of letters to the editor and articles from homeowners unhappy with their zone designation for a whole host of reasons. Several city blocks in the downtown core are red zone. It was very odd to walk for blocks beside the chain link fence that rings the out of bounds area. Inside the fence one can see buildings with huge cracks and fissures or areas where large sections of brick had fallen, but most looked normal, just utterly deserted. We came to a shopping area where the shops and the restaurants were 'chock a block'. The only difference was that the shops themselves were made from what were essentially shipping containers stacked on on top of the other.

At the Container Mall

 It was terrific and helped dispel the gloom not a block away.

After exploring through Hagley Park, a huge and beautiful park where one can golf, play rugby, bowls, cricket, frisbee, enjoy a lovely botanic gardens or even punt along the Avon river, it was time to return to our hotel to rest a bit and then find a place for dinner.

Entrance to Hagley Park, Christchurch

We were delayed from this task by an hour or so when we came upon a theatre troupe who presented 'A Complete History of Christchurch' in an open air theatre and a makeshift stage (yep, it had a shipping container too). Anyway, it was when we were on our way to dinner that I our uninvited visitor forced our first change of plans. Now as many of you know, I am not a stranger to back pain. While I was stiff and a bit sore after the flight I was feeling pretty good about it given the length of the flight and of course my thinking was that several hours of walking would limb things up. Oh how wrong I was. No more than 100 meters from the hotel I made the decision to return to the hotel while the girls supped due to the sharp and escalating pain each step brought. After a hot bath and a reasonable night's sleep I awoke, still with a sore back, but thinking that, like many times before, the worst was over and the stiffness and ache would now start to subside. Oh, how wrong I was.

Departure Day

Departure day is finally here and after months of wait our New Zealand adventure is about to become the present for us. Dave will be by in a few hours to pick us up and take us to the airport for our Air New Zealand flight. As it happens Mary Apps is on the same flight en route to Australia & her daughter. Hmm. Seems to be a theme here: The Daughter,s Tour. However, truth be known, the similarities end with the flight, given than Julie & I are about to travel about New Zealand in an RV exploring the south island with Kim, finding new roads and new vistas. Mary, in contrast, will be in Australia to greet then help welcome her fifth grandchild into this world.  Fifth! And only two daughters! However, she assures us grandparent wannabes that's it's not all a bed of roses. Sure Mary. We understand that it can a tough row to hoe. I am now sitting in the departure lounge a short while 'till we board what will be a 13 1/2 hr flight to Auckland. The girls are off browsing while I take advantage of this new communication device and complete this short installment. It's still hard to grasp that in such a short time we will be half way around the world and reunited with out Kim.