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Thursday, March 8, 2012

Auckland airport

Well here we sit in that place that we all know so well: the departure lounge. What a difference it makes if you are outward bound or homeward bound. This time for us it is the homeward leg and with it comes a mix of emotion. There is sadness that an ending brings. Especially when it is the ending of five weeks of travel though New Zealand and all it's wonders.
Homeward bound

There is also a bit of sadness saying farewell to Kim who we will not see I the flesh again until her return to Canada in August. For me there is also a little trepidation concerning the long flight home and my concern that my back will again rebell despite all my preparation. Of course along with the sadness and trepidation there is also the happiness of the thought of being home again after so long an absence. There is also, this time, the happiness of having seen and spent time with Kim both on the road at the beginning of our trip and also at the YWAM Base in Crystal Springs. There we had the chance to not only see where she has lived for the last year and a half but also meet many of the people that are her family when she is so far away from her Canadian roots.
Our Kim

It brings us so much happiness knowing how loved she is and how loving and nurturing this community is. It was interesting to learn that the nickname her students have given her is 'mom'. This was also a nickname of Blake's at one time. What's going on here?Julie and I stayed at the camp last night to spend our last evening here with Kim. This seemed fitting given she was the reason we came here in the first place. The three of us had a good visit and went out for dinner and then played some cards in quiet companionship (I won). This morning when we went for our final hugs goodbye the whole group of 25 or so prayed for us and we were very moved. We left about 8am and it was a beautiful sunny morning. We took an alternate route into Auckland along some quiet country roads. The Kai Mai range ran for miles to our right and the rolling farmland was all around. It was our last couple of hours in this lovely pastoral area however soon enou we were into the city with cars thicker than sheep in the shearing sheds. After spending a few hours at the Auckland museum we reluctantly made our way to the airport and to the spot we now sit. Julie misbehaved badly coming through immigration hoping her passport would be impounded or something, but no such luck. We are homeward bound. We spent an hour or so here at the airport with Enno & Renate, friends we had met weeks ago in Whatawhiwhi and while there wasn't really time to play more bridge it was fun to catch up with the last bit of our travels and of course it was nice to see familiar faces in an airport do far from home. So that's about it for this blog as our flight is being called. When I get home I will do a final edit and go through the agony of trying to choose only a handful of photos to add here and there. When this is done I will send out an email to let everyone know it is finished. Until then I would encourage you all to put New Zealand into you travel plans. Keith, I now completely understand your comment you made in our kitchen about wanting to return here to live. My question now is: How did you ever manage to leave?
Saying goodbye

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Papamoa Beach - part 2


You can just see Mt Maunganui from our kitchen table
While we had originally planned to stay two nights and then move on it did not take us long to change this plan as we both independently thought this is where our New Zealand adventure should draw to a close. As I mentioned our cottage which was one half of a duplex was sitting right at the crest of the dunes with magnificent views.
The moon shines off Papamoa Beach

While there was no oven in it the interior was modern with a high ceiling that followed the arc of a wave. Furthermore, the was a spa tub which was wonderful after a swim in the ocean. And then there was the beach. Miles of it starting right at our doorstep. The second morning there Julie went to the office to get change for laundry. A little later while we were on one of our many beach walks she mentioned that she enquired as to whether we could extend our stay and sure enough it was free for the Tuesday & Wed night as well and so as soon as we got back we booked. Four nights staying put in such beautiful surroundings felt like true luxury. There were four of these beach front ocean cottage duplexes and during our stay there were only two others occupied thus it felt very much like our private domain. Aside from doing a bit of shopping and visiting a kiwi fruit operation we did not do much more than walk on the beach, swim a bit, eat, sleep, read, soak in the tub etc.
Just don't pinch me

The mornings were very cool and I could not quite convince Julie to be up early enough to come with me to watch the sunrise. Two of them were quite photogenic but the third not so much and this morning I didn't make it out in time for reasons I will not disclose. When we first arrived we were using the maps app to try and figure out which islands were which and there was one small blip right on the horizon directly in front of us that we couldn't figure out because the only thing that was supposed to be there was the Astrolabe Reef. We learned later that indeed this was not an island we were seeing, it was the container ship Rena that had gone aground on the reef last October. I recall reading about it in the news at the time but of course forgot all about it. They have still not offloaded the containers as none of the cranes are operational. Most if not all of the fuel leaked out which wreaked havoc on the sea life in the area. Apparently several of the containers that were lost contained various food products and as all this food drifted in towards shore the sharks followed it in closing the beaches for days on end.

The owner of the Top 10 resort told us that this has. Even her worst season on record (42 yrs) as nobody wanted to holiday at Papamoa because of the wreck. Julie did manage the sunset beach walks and we watched with interest as the surf casters came out with their 12 foot long rods to fish for red snapper and other local fish. After baiting their hooks they would wade out into the surf and then launch a mighty cast with the objective of making it out to the ocean side of the breakers, right where the fish like to feed at dusk. Then, back to shore they would go where their rods would sit vertically in the sand, the fisherman watching the tip for any nibbles. There were other forms of shore fishing we watched; one involved setting out in a kayak with the baited hook, line and sinker to get passed the breakers. Another involved a small machine called a nautilus. Shaped like a miniature submarine this radio controlled device was propelled electrically and could go out to sea for miles if you had enough line. Anyway, it was all very interesting to watch. For the first two days the ocean was fairly calm. The breakers coming in could and did bowl you over should you try to resist them, but they were manageable. At night you could hear each wave as it came in and you knew when a wave a bit bigger than the rest had come into shore by the sound and feel of the 'whump' as the wave broke - little deeper sound and a little more sonic vibration. Yesterday however things were very different and we came to understand why this beach is a destination for surfers worldwide.
This section was crowded with surfers by 6:00




 It was a fine sunny day with only a light breeze but the waves rolling in from the open ocean were huge in comparison to the first couple of days. Rather than hearing each wave break there was now a continuous roar as these giants pounded into shore. At 4 pm the were maybe half a dozen surfers out there. By 6 pm maybe 30 or 40. At sunset the was not a surf caster to be seen which is understandable as neither cast nor kayak nor nautilus would have been able to overcome this surf. It was marvelous to behold. Now, the last little tidbit I want to leave you with concerns the stars. As I mentioned earlier I discovered that the moon was waxing which was a disappointment to me given that I had not yet sighted the famed Southern Cross or that star so many scifi tales find irrestsistable - Alpha Centauri - and I was afraid that with such a bright moon any hope of seeing them before our departure from the southern hemisphere would be lost. Wanting to make one last effort I went online to try and find a website that would help me as I was finding the star charts very difficult to understand. Anyway, one of the sights described where you should look depending on what time of day during what month. For me to look southward I had to go to the front door which I did without much optimism given that not only was the moon very bright the we're lots of street lights out that way. In any event, I opened the door and, boom, there they were in their glory just jumping out of the sky at me. The bright moon had acted as an aid not a deterrent. When will I learn not to prejudge how things might affect me and my surroundings?

Sunset walks are good for the soul

Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Papamoa Beach - part 1


Once again our destination was but a short drive away just beyond the city of Tauranga midway down the Bay of Plenty. The guidebooks suggested that the 90 minute walk to the summit of Mount Maunganui (an elevation of 250m) was well worth the effort on a clear day and as it was a clear day and as the Mount was between us and our destination and as we thought a decent aerobic hike before lunch was a good idea and as we checked to make sure this ancient Maori site was not a sacred site (refer to Cape Reinga) we decided to do it. Mount Maunganui is an extinct volcano and is at the northern end of a beach that stretches south for miles and miles and miles.
Looking down The Bay of Plenty from a'top Mount Maunganui

The beaches are known internationally by surfers who come from around the world. (more on this later). To get to the Mount we had to drive through Tauranga, a port city and I have to say it was a bit disconcerting to be faced with having to negotiate a multilane freeway after so many days of twisty but low traffic volume roads. Tauranga is not an attractive place, at least from its main road and then the area at the base of Mount Mauganui is a long strip of highrise buildings, bars, restaurants and souvenir shops. Choked with traffic it was not a pretty sight. I was getting close to high tailing it out of there when we finally found a spot to park and so we headed out. We were right. It was a good aerobic work out. The guidebook was right. The panoramic views on this beautiful sunny day were stupendous. Our lunch, washed down with a couple of beers that weighed heavy on the ascent was stupendous and guilt free (see Cape Reinga) although we could tell by the looks of some of the others that had reached the summit that they wished they to had thought to bring nourishment. Anyway, it was a fine way to spend a few hours and I look forward to posting a few of the photos. Now, on to Papamoa Beach and our lodgings.


Our Papamoa Beach Pad
Upon looking at the location via the ipad maps app I was somewhat disconcerted to see that this Top 10 resort was in the middle of what looked like a very urban area. This was also the most expensive place we had booked as it boasted itself as 'absolute beachfront' but somehow I was skeptical. We found it without any difficulty but all my fears of being in the middle of a busy urban area were confirmed. Traffic lights, round abouts, shopping centers, greasy looking take away shops - they were all there. I am happy to report that all of my fears were ill founded. Between the road and the ocean there was several hundreds meters of dunes. When you are down on the beach nothing exists except the ocean on one side and the dunes on the other. Our little cottage sits at the edge of the dunes. When we look to the left we see Mount Mauganui 15k in the distance and beyond it the Coromadel coast and mountains.
First stars over Mt Maunganui
When we look to the right we can see White island (an active volcano) and Cape Runaway marking the southern end of the Bay of Plenty. Looking strait out to sea you see nothing but the horizon for such a wide expanse that it is easy to discern the curvature of the earth. I'm afraid I'm not really doing justice to the majesty of the vistas we enjoy from our little cabin perched on the crest of the dunes. We hear nothing but the crashing of the surf and the squawking of the gulls. The beaches are essentially empty save for the surfers, dog walkers and at sunset the surf casters hoping to return with snapper for dinner. This place is a little piece of paradise and it is here that we will stay until it is time to go home.
A surf-caster tries his luck at sunset with Mt Maunganui in the background

Waihi Beach - part 2

I'm sorry if everyone is getting tired of how I keep raving about all the wonderful beaches we have been experiencing but let me remind you that these blog entries are firstly for my own personal use in the years to come when I know I will need more than just a few gentle prompts to dredge memories of thoughts and feeling long forgotten. And so yes Waihi Beach is another long crescent beach with firm white sand and when the wind is right, boasts surfer quality breakers. Very close to Auckland it is a popular weekend getaway destination. We were excited to be on a beach again this day as winds up to 150k had been predicted in the region and indeed the previous day they had cancelled the Cook Strait ferry crossings, a rare occurrence given gale force winds are regularly encountered. Unfortunately for we storm watchers the promised winds did not materialize and what there was turned out to be pretty much offshore in direction thus the seas were unnaturally calm. The small village of Waihi Beach is only 10k or so from the town of Waihi, the site where the Martha mine was established in 1882.
This bridge led to a great hike, but bring your light
This gold mine was one of the largest in the world at the time and a significant percentage of global gold production (which I can't now recall) was at this site. Waihi is really a sleepy little town except that essentially right in the middle of town is the mine. We're talking open pit mine to a depth of 250 meters. From the road into town you can see a large minehead now in disrepair. It had a very familiar look to it and the puzzle pieces fell into place when we saw we could tour the 'Cornish Minehead' and take a ride down to the depth of the pit. We passed on this opportunity and instead headed for the Karangahake gold fields. Here we had a fantastic walk through the Karangahake gorge. This hike took us over swinging bridges, past abandoned mining equipment and through mine shafts.
Access to the notched pathway was blocked.  Back through the tunnels again.
While the use of a torch was recommended we of course did not have one with us and thought we could probably get away without one. Wrong! While the first couple of sections of tunnel had light coming in from windows cut out to the edge of the gorge every 50 meters or so, the last section was totally and completely pitch black. Eyes open or closed made no difference. The tunnel still had the narrow gauge rail lines and ties and there were a few spots where I had to duck down a bit so it really wasn't safe to try feeling your way forward.
Go to the light!
We negotiated the last several hundred meters using the flash of my camera to illuminate the next few steps. It wasn't until we made it to the light at the end of the tunnel that Julie remembered Kim showing her how her phone had a little flashlight setting and it wasn't until lunch when I reached into my backpack and discovered my headlamp. We had a delightful picnic lunch on the rocks by the river and then retraced our steps through the tunnels then back to camp, however not before provisioning ourselves for that evening's repast. Now most of the cottages we had been staying in had fairly limited cooking facilities: a two burner hob, a microwave, a toaster and a communal barbecue. However this one also had a small oven. We were excited. We could roast something. Thus into the butcher and immediately two of the most amazing looking lamb shanks seemed to cry out and say; 'Take me! Take me!'. So we did. Thus after rubbing them down with grated garlic, salt and pepper into the roasting pan along with an onion, some carrots, kumara and a bottle of Monteith's summer ale they went. It's worth noting that as far as we could tell the roasting pan had never been used before. Our plan was to walk along the beach and into the bakery while the lamb slowly roasted so we could fetch a suitable desert for the impending feast. We already had the mint sauce. We had the wine. We had the green veg and salad. It retrospect, it was a good thing that the bakery was closed when we got there. When we returned to our little cottage about two hours later any anxiety we might have had about being away so long was quickly dispelled by delicious aroma that assaulted us when we opened the door. I thickened the gravy using some of the boiled potato and Kavli biscuit. It was passable but in my opinion the weakest part of the meal. But, OMB felt we ate like kings enjoying these tender succulent morsels of delight and that night's repast will be of those meals we long remember.

Waihi Beach - part 1

Waihi Beach is only about an hour's drive south of where we were on Hot Water Beach and after several days of walking mainly on beaches we decided that we would look for tramp in the woods enroute. Not that we were bored in any way with the beaches but the forests were just as interesting. Enroute we came to the town of Whangamata and stopped at the isite location - NZ's tourist information centres. After discussing the many options we had, we made the decision to do what was described as about a 3 hour hike up the Wentworth Valley to a waterfall. The route would take us along the river through a thickly forested steep sided valley. Sounded great and we were excited to begin.

Mobile, Hmmm?
Now for just about the entire trip Julie had been talking about her ambition to find a dress - no, not a dress; the dress - (or dresses) suitable for some upcoming summer weddings. Up until recently this had not really been a concentrated search - the kind that would require a coffee shop and a bookstore nearby for me - but now that our time in New Zealand was starting to wind down the priority of this task was starting to rise. Thus I was not surprised when having just exited the isite Julie turned around and went back into ask if there were any dress shops in town that sold New Zealand products. Yes indeed there was and so off I headed to the cafe and then to the bakery where I acquired a baguette for that day's lunch as well as a couple of sugar donuts thinking Julie would probably need a bit of comfort food after another disappointment. I am happy to report that the comfort food was not required. While the dress had not yet been chosen when I arrived it was very shortly thereafter. Julie was thrilled, I was thrilled, the salesperson was thrilled and best of all the dress (or dresses) look absolutely thrilling on Julie. Thusly thrilled we were ravenous and decided to put an end to the baguette before heading out for our tramp. The parking lot at the trailhead was about 10k off the main road and the seal lasted for maybe 2 of those and then quickly deteriorated from gravel to a Minefield of potholes that required a maximum speed of maybe 10 for fear of breaking an axle or something. The valley was lovely with sheep and cattle grazing. A guy on his tractor passed us (his tires were better able to handle the potholes). We knew we were getting close when ahead we saw one of those road signs with an exclamation point on it and the word: Ford. Sure enough, there it was with the water flowing smartly, but smoothly over the surface of the road. This time however, there was evidence of it having been used recently and it wasn't until we were half way across that the thought occurred to me that it was probably the tractor that had passed us a while back.
This time we did it!
In any event we successfully forded the river and shortly thereafter arrived at the parking lot. This little adventure seemed to put a spring in our step as we arrived at the waterfall in a little less than an hour. It was a lovely walk with a couple of bridges across a river comparable to the Seymour River. The falls were difficult to photograph as they were in a steep and narrow gorge that was heavily treed. We saw a total 6 people there and back and this peaceful solitude in this lush green place made for a delightful afternoon (especially with a new dress - the dress - safely tucked away in the car).

Monday, March 5, 2012

Hot Water Beach

The trip around the Firth of Thames was punctuated by a soak in the Miranda mineral baths. The large pool fed by several hot springs lies in the middle of a large flat area, once a combination of swamp (since drained) and mudflats. Every year this area is visited by millions of migratory birds. Or so we are told as they seemed few and far between the day we drove through. Between the town of Thames which marks the beginning of the Coromandel peninsula and our destination this day, a small community on the eastern shores called Hahei lies the Coromandel Range and so once again we found ourselves driving up, down, over and around a breathtakingly torturous road. But we survived, our lunch remaining intact in our stomachs despite the devilish attempts of the road to pry it loose. The Top 10 site we were staying at for the next two nights was located maybe 10k south of Hahei along a stretch of beach named Hot Water Beach. As a result of some geologic quirk, thermal vents bring heated CO2 up through the sand in a small area of a very large and beautiful beach.

Nobody was steamed at Hot Water Beach
  For a few hours before and after low tide one could walk across this section of beach and feel the warmth of the sand. One could walk, except for the fact that this small section is thick with people all carving out or rather digging out their piece of the beach forming private hot pools. The idea is to have a wave deposit some sea water into your little pit which would quickly warm up. Spades could be rented for around $5.00/hr. It seemed they would be useful not only for the digging, but also for defending your territory. Anyway, while the scene seemed a bit obscene to us, we did linger there to wiggle our feet into the sand to search for these hot spots. We found them. They were hot. Very hot. If you stood in a hot spot and let the waves wash the sand from beneath your feet you could only stand it for maybe 5 or 10 seconds before you had to move lest the soles of your feet would be scorched. While this was all very novel the lure of yet another largely empty crescent beach was too much to resist and so we left this industrious knot of spade wielders for the stretch of cool firm sand beyond. Hot Water Beach is also a surfing beach and we watched with interest a group of four boys maybe twelve or thirteen heading out.
This beach had much more to offer
The surf was definitely up. One of the four was clearly very accomplished and he quickly and skillfully overcame the barrier that the crashing waves presented them. The other three despite determined effort were repeatedly overcome by the breakers and thrown back towards shore. Two of them eventually made it but we watched the forth, head hung low, trudge further down the beach to a spot where the resistance was less fierce. Ah, the triumphs and the tragedies of youth! That evening we shared a communal picnic table at dinner with a policeman from Copenhagen traveling solo and mid-way through his 3 week vacation, a young couple from Sweden about to return home after 10 weeks and a couple from Victoria at the beginning of 7 weeks of roaming. Communal kitchens are terrific things at campgrounds like this. The following day we drove the short distance to Hahei to hike to a place called Cathedral Cove, a much photographed and much promoted stretch of beach on the south side of Mercury Bay. Mercury Bay is so named because it was here that in 1769 Captain Cook sailing the Endeavour observed a transit of the planet Mercury across the face of the sun.
Looking across Mercury Bay to Hahei from the Cook monument
A sunny day in a rain forest
This allowed the location of bay to be plotted on the globe exactly. From there he proceeded to map the coastline. I digress. The walk to Cathedral Cove is not unlike the walk to Quarry Rock in our own Deep Cove in terms of distance and difficulty. There the similarities end as the dramatic coastline looks out to sea and the curving horizon. A grouping of small islands in the distance jutting out of the ocean reminded me of the islands of Vietnam's Halong Bay. The beach of Cathedral Cove is truly a gem and despite the danger warnings and signs forbidding entrance one could not help but enter the cathedral like cavern which led from one beach to the next. (except that Julie did resist)

Cathedral Cove was beautiful but also quite busy compared to most beaches
 The wind and water carved limestone cliffs reached up maybe 50 meters or so and conveniently there was a small freshwater stream that tumbled down offering a freshwater shower to wash away the salt water from your swim before humping your way back up the steep, steep trail for your return to Hahei. From there we headed to Cook 's Beach and a small Passenger ferry that for a small fee took us across the Bay to the town of Whitianga. While we had originally planned to have dinner there we changed our minds given a) the prices at the restaurant we had chosen daunted us a bit; b) we had enjoyed the previous night's communal repast so much and; c) we chanced across a lovely looking butcher's shop and a very funky natural food store with wonderful veg on display. Thus after finding the perfect something for a bride-to-be that we know and love we headed back to the ferry and our car, speculating on where in the world our dinner companions might call home.

Orere Point

I have observed that the water vortex in a draining sink or a bathtub rotates in a counterclockwise motion but cannot visualize what happens at home so will have to wait a few more days to complete this experiment. I can tell you however, that in the northern hemisphere if the left side is dark then the moon is waxing. In the southern hemisphere a waxing moon is dark on the right side. I look forward to observing the moon from somewhere along the equator someday. If the moon orbits the earth every 27 days why are full moons 29 1/2 days apart? I have to say, gazing up into the night sky and speculating on celestaial brain-teasers is infinitely more interesting than watching the bathtub drain. However, the purpose of this blog is not to try and sort out these puzzles, rather it is to describe our travels through this amazing country so I'd best get back on task. I am still days behind and our days remaining are drawing short. So, where was I? Oh yes, I was in Dargaville, a small town in the Northlands, known as the kumara capital of NZ which would probably make it the kumara capital of the world. Kumara is the Maori word for sweet potato and in many of the grocery stores the kumara section rivals that of the potato.
A kumara processing plant in Dargaville

You can choose from yellow, orange or red flesh and we have found all to be delicious. They boil in half the time of a regular potato and are dryer and a little more textured than the sweet potatoes or yams we get at home. Another food product that we have been enjoying is avocado. This is avocado season and we are in an avocado growing region. At the roadside stands one can buy 10 huge, perfectly ripe avocados for $5.00. At the office at the place we are currently staying (Papamoa Beach) they have two large baskets on the counter full of avocados and we are encouraged to help ourselves for free, which we do. It was explained that these avocados are 'windfall' and therefore not suitable for sale. A local farmer is a friend of the owner and in season delivers crates of them and so if the proprietor did not give them away they would rot. Needless to say we are only too happy to help avoid this waste. It is something like zucchini season at home - never leave your car unlocked or you will return to find a few in your back seat. I digress. The day I intend to recount was Tuesday Feb 28th. It was essentially a longish travel day wherein we departed from the Northland back through Auckland and towards the Coromandel peninsula. Enroute and still north of Auckland we were in need of a break and noticed a sign advertising a sheep show as well as a shop and so decided to stop to have a look. We left perhaps 90 minutes later rich in the knowledge that our loved ones will appreciate our random roadside rest but poorer, hundreds of dollars poorer, in the pocketbook. I will say no more at this point, knowing that some of these loved ones are reading this passage. Back in the car and wanting to avoid the toll road into Auckland ($2.00!) we headed back to Orewa where several days previously we had watched the kite surfers skip across the waves. This day was calmer and we enjoyed fish & chips for lunch. We also stumbled upon a dog shop and even though we had already acquired something for Mitchell there was something 'on sale' that could not be resisted. I will say no more at this point even though Mitch does not know how to read. Orere Point is at the northwest tip of the Firth of Thames and across this bay lies the Coromandel. This was to be a one night stop off and after a long walk on the beach we came back to our cabin and enjoyed barbequed lamb with boiled kumara and a salad. There were no avocados in the salad as the ones we had purchased a few days earlier at a roadside honesty box were still like rocks. Despite this, dinner was delicious.
Two flowers admiring one another
There were four or five ducks that took a great interest in what we were doing and at one point we had to close the door as one of them had come up the steps and stood at the doorstep quacking in a rather polite tone. No doubt he was asking permission to enter but we were not really in the mood for company that night and you all know how difficult it can be to converse with a duck.

Sunday, March 4, 2012

Kauri Coast

Now that we had made it all the way to the northern tip it was time to head back south. Our plan (such as it was) was to head towards the Coromandel peninsula which is south and then east of Aukland. While this could be done in one day this meant repeating the route we had taken north. Besides, other than our attempt to get to the Tasman Sea by conquering the dunes, we had not spent any time on the west coast of the north island. Thus we decided to make a town called Dargaville our destination. This would do several things for us: it would take us on new roads; several of them would be back roads; it would take us on a small ferry; it would take to the Waipoua forest and along a section of the west coast known as the kauri coast. Centuries ago, the Northlands forests were dominated by kauri trees. These massive, straight-trunked trees were prized for their timber and the guide books tells that the forests were largely depleted by the 1790's. But, just like the odd old growth groves in BC, a few giant kauri remain and we wanted to see them. It's not all that easy to travel east to west in the Northlands. The only main highway stays along the east coast, but after some discussion and advice from a local we set off cross country to make for a village called Kohukohu. From there a ferry would take us across the Hokianga Harbour to Rawene and from there we could drive out to Opononi which is right on the coast at the northern end of the kauri coast road.
The Hokianga Harbour ferry is a more direct route to the west coast
It wasn't that far to travel, but, it seems the less traveled the road, the twistier it gets. We drove along some lovely rural roads but in several sections we would be clinging to the side of a very steep section negotiating hairpin turns on roads that looked like they might get washed away In the next rainstorm or might collapse if I was too close to the edge. I really enjoyed these sections, Julie, not so much (I was driving). Hokianga Harbour is not very wide but incises the west coast deeply. The ferry cut maybe two hours off our trip and allowed us to drive along highway 12 through the forested areas once home to all the big trees.

High traffic pathways protect the forest floor
The largest living kauri tree even has a name: Tane Mahuta means "the king of the forest" and let me tell you, it lives up to it's name. This tree is estimated to be over 1,500 years old and is of massive proportion, dwarfing everything around it. The trunk has a girth of 46 feet and retains that size from the forest floor to the first massive branches about 150 feet above.

With grayish bark the tree is surrounded by lush green forest growth with a canopy maybe 40 feet up. It was sort of like seeing an enormous elephant leg as it seemed so out of place with the rest of the forest. We spent a couple of hours walking to several different kauri groves, but none of them matched the astonishing Tane Mahuta. My photos don't do it justice. It is too massive and the forest too dense so you cannot adequately capture it on film. (or digitally, but you know what I meant)
Tane Mahuta is Mauri for: 'the king of the forest' the largest living Kauri tree in NZ.
Upon arrival at that night's lodgings we discovered that they were miles away from any towns or grocery stores and we had failed to provision ourselves for dinner.
Variation on a ford

The proprietors knew this well and in the office was a cooler with milk and beer, a shelf with mushy peas and baked beans and a freezer full of ice cream and.... Pies. We had a choice - drive 30 minutes or defrost a couple of meat pies. We chose the mince and the meat lover's spicy. This and a can of beans were more than music to our ears that night.

Saturday, March 3, 2012

Cape Reinga

After having visited Bluff at the southern end of the south island we were excited about having the chance to visit Cape Reinga at the northern tip of the north island. Some of the photos looked great and the fact that it was there that currents from the Pacific Ocean to the east and the Tasman Sea to the west clashed intrigued us. While it was only about 150k from Whatawhiwhi it took close to three hours to get there given the twists and turns of the road and the urge to stop and various scenic lookouts, cafes etc. Cape Reinga did not disappoint. The view was fabulous and while the oceans were not exactly angry there was a stretch where the competing currents were putting up a bit of a fuss. The parking lot was at a elevation of perhaps 300 meters and the lighthouse and viewing area was maybe a two kilometer walk northward. There were walks of various lengths that began at the parking lot, some leading down to the different beaches along the shore and others heading southward along the spine of the cape. As has been our habit we had packed a picnic lunch and as it was past noon when we arrived we decided to take it along with us. Still undecided on which walk to take we decided to start with a walk to the lighthouse so as to complete our south to north transit of New Zealand. It was sunny but windy and so a bit cool when exposed to the wind. About half way down the path there was a bench, sheltered from the wind where we had a great view of the lighthouse.
Our lunchtime view of Cape Reinga
There was the remnant of a small well nearby. It was a lovely spot with the only downside being that it was on the main track to the lighthouse and so dozens of people were passing by this spot - but we were hungry and so there we sat and proceeded to pull out our sandwiches. Because there were so many people about we decided to stay a little more discreet and so our beverage that day was water rather than our usual bottle of beer. Anyway, as soon as we started to chow down we noticed that almost everyone that passed us by was staring at us as we munched away. Nobody said anything but the stares were not accompanied by the usual smiling and nodding when one makes eye contact with a stranger. I was maybe halfway through my sandwich when an out of breath Brit coming back up from the lighthouse heaved herself onto our bench. When she was able to talk she mentioned to us, very politely, that their guide had instructed them not to eat or to drink while in this sacred Maori spot. Had we read the signs at the parking lot we would have learned that in pre-christian days the Maori believed that the spirit of the dead travelled to Cape Reinga on their journey to their afterlife. There they would undergo a spiritual cleansing at a hillside spring - the Living Waters of Tane - and then after one last look at the land they loved and the life they lived their spirits would leap off the headlands and descend down to their ancestral home of Hawaiki. Out of respect for these ancient beliefs and so as not to cause these spirits any further regret regarding their exit, visitors were asked not to eat or drink while on the sacred grounds. 'nuf said. Not only were we feeling the cold stares of our fellow tourists we were also feeling the longing of the dead for a morsel of multi grain, shaved ham, cheddar and tomato. With this knowledge we no longer felt welcome he and after quickly packing up the remains of our grub, hiding our water bottles and taking the obligatory photos at the lighthouse we sprinted back to the car for a quick exit.
Cape Reinga

Besides, on the way up we saw to the west the tops of some giant sand dunes and signs along the road advertising sand surfing and we wanted to see all this. The dunes were astonishing, comparable to the ones we saw in Morocco except these ones were at the edge of the ocean rather than in the middle of a desert. These dunes marked the northern access to ninety mile beach, a stretch of beach that carried on, uninterrupted for, well, ninety miles or so except the the guidebook discloses it is actually only 60 miles. While I didn't think my spine was going to be up to a surf down the steep slopes of the dunes, it was definitely up for a walk and thus we set off with the objective of getting out to the beach to watch the surf crashing in from the Tasman Sea. We were smart enough to know not to start this by going up and over the dunes. There was a small stream meandering around the parking lot that disappeared around the corner of the closest dune and so we decided to walk along the stream bed.
and I'll take the low road
We walked and we walked all the time resisting the urge to scramble up into the dunes. After an hour or so we thought we could hear the breakers and thinking we were close decided we could now head into the dunes to complete our journey to the water. This was a mistake. After maybe 15 or 20 minutes of trudging through the sand we finally gained enough elevation to see the ocean. It didn't look too far away so we decided to carry on, up and down and around the dunes. Another 15 minutes went by and another sighting of the water. It seemed no closer than the last time and by this time it was getting a little more difficult to pick a route because the underbrush and scrub was getting thicker. We tried heading back to the stream bed but that we discovered involved a steep descent though dense and very scratchy bush. It was hot and windy and while we had brought our sunscreen with us our water was running low. Thus we decided there was nothing for it but to abandoned our objective and retrace our route through the dunes and head back to the car. Retrace our steps. Easier said than done, but, with the wiley skills of a Toureg and some blind luck we succeeded in our quest for survival.
This is the northern entrance to drive on the famous 90 Mile Beach (all 60 miles of it)

Back at our cottage and all cleaned up and re-hydrated we met again with the neighbors after dinner - this time to play Bridge.  It was fun to play - (at least for us as we bid in English, not German) - and also to learn how the game varies in different parts of the world.  We only rarely meet up with fellow travelers who are keen to play and so it was a treat to enjoy their company over a game of cards.

Friday, March 2, 2012

Karikari Beach Bums


We awoke the morning of Saturday, Feb 25th with absolutely no ambition other than to explore the beaches in and around the Karikari peninsula which is the point of land at the northern end of Doubtless Bay where our Top 10 campsite was situated. After packing a picnic lunch in our chilly bin we headed out. But not before running into our next door neighbours who were a couple from Germany here on a golf holiday, Enno and Renate. Now everyone reading this blog knows Julie quite well and so will not be surprised to learn that 10 minutes later we had a date that night to get together to share a glass of wine after dinner. Then off we went, and using the ipad maps app as our guide decided that the first beach we would hit would be the one on the northern side of the peninsula. There appeared to be a couple of roads leading down to it, but the first was gated with no trespassing signs. Thus we continued further up the peninsula and the road turned to gravel and then to a pot-holed dirt track which led up to yet another locked gate. However, just to the left of the gate we saw a rutted track and sure enough after maybe a kilometer it led to a small parking lot with just two other cars there. The parking lot was perhaps 100 meters above sea level. In the distance to our right was the tip of the Kerikeri peninsula and to our left was the arc of the Aupori Peninsula that leads up to Cape Reinga still far to the north. The crescent beach with beautiful white sand was laid out before us and went for miles in both directions. It was a sunny warm day and the waters in the shallows were a wonderful turquoise blue with darker patches of coral clearly visible.
It was breathtaking and when I get home you will get a tiny inkling of the majesty of this place from the photos I will append. A pathway took us down over the dunes and onto the beach where the surf was rolling in over the fine, firm sand. We learned later that ancient volcanic activity produced unmeasured quantities of sand in the northern peninsula and this sand linked several volcanic islands together to form this part of the island. The wind was brisk and we were trying to decide whether to start our walk into the wind or against it. A couple approached us on their way back to the car and mentioned that they had seen a pod of dolphins well down the beach, downwind from where we stood. This is all it took for us to make up our minds and with the wind at our backs we headed down the beach hoping that we might also get a glimpse. Far down the beach was a solitary figure, just a speck in the sand. Other than this figure we were alone on this huge expanse. The breakers were crashing in and the dry sand at times stinging our ankles as the wind picked it up a few inches to race along the beach. Then well in the distance we could see the dolphins, very close to shore making their way towards us. There were maybe a dozen or so fishing for their lunch occasionally leaping out of the water and generally staying close together in their pack. As they approached I was already thigh deep in the water and while a 'swim with the dolphins' thought did cross my mind, these were very big dolphins (Hector's Dolphins) and as my experience with dolphins is about as deep as it is concerning crossing fords in cars, I immediately discarded the idea. In any event, watching this pod pass by, some within a few meters of where we stood was heart-poundingly exciting. The photos I have do not do this justice in any way.
I guess you really have to be there

The pod continued on past us. We turned around into the wind and followed along the shore staying close for maybe 15 minutes or so. Then after more or less stopping several hundred meters further up the shore, they reversed direction and gave us another pass by performance. Again we reversed direction heading downwind as they made their way along the beach. This back and forth performance carried on for about an hour. The two of us and the one other figure on the beach were the sole witnesses of what was to us a singular event. When we finally got to within hailing distance of our beach's other occupant it was clear that he too had been as awe-struck as we were over this encounter. Turns out Gary was a surfer from Tofino fulfilling a long held dream to come to New Zealand to surf the many surf beaches on offer here. Yes, it's a SSW. Finally the dolphins became mere specks again and so we heaed back to the car to retrieve our lunch which we consumed gazing out on this incomparable vista. Back in the car we drove the maybe 5 K to the south side of the peninsula to another perfectly shaped, but smaller crescent beach of Waikato Bay.
Waikato BayWatch
There we walked maybe a kilometer or two before setting up our chairs and pulling out our books for a bit of relaxing. The wind was still a bit brisk and so after an hour or so we decided to reverse our steps and go instead to Matai Bay. Here we were perfectly sheltered from the wind and warmed up enough to find it necessary to go in for a swim in order to cool down. I'm not sure what the water temperature would have been. It's definitely not like Mexico, but, it was warm enough for Julie. By now it was late afternoon and after a quick stop back at camp to shower we headed into town for fish and chips and a pint of Tui. Julie had the snapper and I had salt and pepper calamari. Served up in waxed newspaper and plastic knives and forks, we sat in an open deck right at the shore with the sun low in the sky. The food was delicious. But if you wanted vinegar you had to pay an extra dollar. We paid.
Fish and Chips & a pint at sunset.

No sooner had we returned to our cabin than Enno knocked on our door, bottle of wine in hand. He and his wife Renate were here on a golfing holiday. Renate had recently retired from teaching and plays to a 9 handicap. Enno, an economics professor at a university in Hamburg seldom beats her anymore given that she is now playing 6 days a week. We had a great visit and it was really interesting to hear his views on the issues facing the EU. By now we were getting drowsy what with such a fine day on the beaches, a fine meal, and a fine glass (or three) of wine with our new friends, we were off to bed, truly contented.

Doubtless Bay


I have been waiting to catch up to to this part of our trip as there were several events and places we experienced were just awesome. But first, just a little bit about that day's journey which started with a visit to the physiotherapist. Alyse was recommended to us by the owner of the camp ground we were staying in. He related that there was a man that drove the several hours from Aukland on a regular basis to her since her recent move to Whangerai. Although my mother was a physiotherapist up until this day I had never seen one professionally. Back (way back) when my brothers and I were young boys we thought it hilarious that one of her young patients had dubbed her 'the torture lady'. Today I got an inkling of how this name was earned. The examination and explanation of what was happening to me was done very efficiently. She provided me with many practical suggestions, both short and long term on how to manage. Then she offered to do a treatment to try and relax some of the muscles that had been causing me so much grief. Notice I said treatment and not massage. When I think massage I think of a very pleasant time with someone's warm hands gliding about my anointed body causing pleasurable feelings wherever they go (the hands, I mean). While this treatment began with warm hands and (unscented) lubricant, it was as if her fingers were made of steel. Needless to say, she knew exactly what muscles needed stimulation and I did my very best to stay relaxed and compliant thinking I'd much sooner endure this short term pain if it helped relieve the constant aches and pains. The fact that I am sitting here now recounting these torturous few minutes is testament to the fact that I did endure and, low & behold, was able to bend and stretch to a much greater degree than I could before. While I will return to my doctor for more trigger point therapy, I also plan to visit a physio when we get home.
It would be hard to keep your eye on the ball on this golf course
Now, on to Doubtless Bay which is further up the eastern coast and right at the base of the Aupori Peninsula which ends at Cape Reinga. Legend has it that the first men to discover New Zealand were Polynesians who landed in Doubtless Bay around 950AD. archeologists will tell you that based on Maori middens and carbon dating etc. they believe the first settlements were around 1300 but in any event all seem to agree it was in Doubtless Bay that it all began. This part of the coast is a fisher's paradise and on the drive up Julie and I had visions of fresh snapper for dinner that night. Knowing that the community we were staying in (Whatawhiwhi - pronounced fah tah FEE fee) was tiny and Mauri we decided to stop in the village of Mangonui to provision ourselves and to acquire that lovely piece of fresh fish with our name on it. We parked and walked along the charming street and soon spied a shop advising 'fresh fish takeaway'. However, this was essentially a fish & chip shop and while they were prepared to sell us some of their snapper the price was going to be outrageous. This was understandable as they wanted to sell us fish'n'chips, not uncooked fillets. They suggested we try the Four Square which was one the the NZ grocery chains. Mangonui being tiny, so was the grocery store and the only thing really fresh was the breeze. When we asked the sales clerk where we might find some fresh fish to buy her response was, "I dunno. We catch our own and never have to buy any". Same answer at another little shop and by now we were starting to despair. However, as luck would have it in the next little village called Coopers Bay we found a little shop with our fresh fish in it and thusly provisioned we headed for that night's accommodation discussing the various cooking options we might employ. When we arrived the cabin we were in and it's magnificent view of Doubtless Bay delayed our dinner a bit as we just had to sit and savour a wee dram sitting on our balcony.
Room with a view (of Doubtless Bay)
The fish, a delicate whitefish lived up to our imagination. We used Dave's method - dipped in egg and crushed crackers and pan fried. The only issue was the crackers. We did not have saltines or anything so compliant. Neither did we have a rolling pin or anything that would quickly render the tough little numbers we had to the desired consistency but after much pounding with the butt end of a wooden spoon and several plastic bags the task was completed. That evening we walked a bit on the beach and gazed up at the stars, trying in vain to locate the famous Southern Cross constellation marveling all the same at the beauty of the night sky. The Milky Way seems to fill half the sky and with so little light or air pollution the dome of twinkling stars is truly magnificent. That night we drifted off to sleep full of anticipation for the days to come in this amazing country.

Thursday, March 1, 2012

Whangarei

We departed Crystal Springs bright and early on Wed, Feb 22 as we had a long day of driving ahead of us. Kim had departed even earlier as she was driving to Auckland to pick up the arriving students so we didn't have to say goodbye yet again. Our destination was a small city called Whangarei about 350 km north. The most northerly city in New Zealand, it's main claim to fame is a deep and sheltered harbour and thus is a popular spot for world wandering sailors needing shelter from the summer storms of the south Pacific. Whangarei is also part of the Northland, that section of the north island beyond Auckland and running up the very northernmost tip, Cape Reinga,a sacred Mauri site that Julie and I managed to blaspheme (we were there on the 26th so there are a few more blog entries before you will hear about this). The Northland, being a little more remote is a little quieter as well and as soon as we made it through Auckland the traffic died down and the road took on a more twisty and turny dimension reminiscent of many of the south island roads.
The beaches rimming the Hauraki Gulf are 30 minutes from downtown Auckland

While our maps app told us the trip should take about 4.5 hours what with a stop for lunch at a kite surfing beach and other short roadside stops we did not arrive until late afternoon. There was a nice walk from our campsite into the town basin where we stopped to admire some of the yachts, enjoy a coffee and then do some provisioning. That night we enjoyed BBQ lamb and a fine Marlborough Pinot Noir. Happily content, or contentedly happy we drifted off to sleep. Our plan was to spend two nights in Whangarei and it was a nice feeling to know that we would not to be up early to pack up & be ready for another long drive. While my back had been making great progress perhaps the day in the car had been a bit of a set back as I awoke on the morning of the 23rd feeling pretty stiff and sore. Now our friend Brenda had given me some stretching exercises to do which seemed to be helping me and she also suggested I consider seeing a physiotherapist and so after a bit of research made an appointment for the following morning. With this done, we set off for a forest tramp to a beautiful waterfall.
Me at Whangarei Falls

The path took us by a stand of old Kauri trees which have been largely depleted as these straight-trunked trees were great for boat building and housing. More on these giants later. No sooner had we returned to our car from our forest tramp then the skies opened up and we experienced our first serious rainfall. It reminded me of some of the rain storms we've experienced in Mexico with torrents of rain falling in sheets.
A Kauri tree along the walk to the falls

 You would be soaked to the skin in seconds and even with wipers on frenetic visibility was lousy. Fortunately we spotted a pub and we decided it would be safer there, quaffing an ale or two than it would braving the elements. We had our trusty iPad with us and so spent a pleasant couple of hours playing scrabble and watching the tide come up. Once the rain subsided we continued along the sea-side hugging road that led out to Whangarei Head, passing through several very picturesque little villages.
Cheers!
While we were planning to do another beach walk, no sooner had we arrived than the skies opened up again and knowing that there were still many beach walks in the cards for us we opted to turn around and poddle along more of these lovely rural roads. On this topic I must say that our iPad has been absolutely wonderful. Using the maps app it is so easy to pick a route for the long way home without fear of getting lost. One can zoom in close enough to see whether or not a particular road is seal (ie paved) or gravel and also whether you will be climbing up the side of a mountain or perhaps having to ford a river. We did learn, however, not to ignore roadside warnings, such as 'not a through road' even when it is clearly evident on the iPad that it should be clear sailing.

Tuesday, February 28, 2012

Matamata. - part 2

We were grateful to stay put in the same place for three nights in a row, in part because it gave Julie & me time to contemplate the next part of our journey and provision ourselves accordingly. On the south island we were completely self contained in our campervan. We had beds, we had a fridge, a hob, a (tiny) oven, a toaster, dishes, cutlery, bowls, a kitchen sink, a toilet, a shower, even a driver. For the north island and sans Kim and sans campervan, we would have only our Toyota Sunny and ourselves. We were by now over two weeks in and still neither Julie nor I had sat behind the wheel but the was oohing for it now but to dive in. I am happy and relieved to report that this first venture onto to wrong side of the road went without a hitch as long as you don't count repeated use of the windshield washers instead of the turn signal indicators on our inaugural voyage into Matamata. High on the list of things to acquire was a 'chilli bin' so as to keep our food provisions cold. OK, I admit that pretty much from the moment we bought it it would also contain the odd beer or three. Any of you who have ever gone camping with us know how masterfully Julie can pack a cooler and so hats off to her, we have never gone hungry or thirsty since that day. We have had the occasional restaurant meal but for the most part have been making or cooking our own food. There will be more on this topic in subsequent entries. That first day at the base I don't think we saw Kim at all other than at the communal lunch and dinner. The leadership group were prepping for the arrival of their students which was only a few days away. On day two Julie and I set off for Rotorua where we took in a sheep show. Yes, a sheep show.
"who are you?" they asked, sheepishly.
While very 'touristic', it was great as on display were around 20 different types of sheep. The qualities of each breed were explained as were the herding methods that different dog breeds employ. There was of course a gift shop with all manner of wool products and I am relieved to say that so great was the sticker shock that we came out with only a few skeins of wool and a couple of tea towels (not wool). For our final evening with Kim we invited her and the rest of the leadership team to join us for dinner - not just any dinner - a pastie dinner. We'd show those kiwis what meat pies are all about! It was a great success. All of the team are twenty-somethings not lacking for appetites and so the pasties were dispatched with gusto and good fellowship. Julie and I said our farewells to Kim later that night and we are greatly comforted in the knowledge that she is part of a loving and caring group who have dedicated themselves to the betterment of mankind.

Monday, February 27, 2012

Matamata - part 1


Matamata's biggest claim to fame as far as we are concerned is not that the Hobbiton set (where much of the Lord of the Rings trilogy was filmed) is nearby, rather this has been home for Kim for the last 16 months or so. Her Youth With a Mission base is located about 15 minutes outside of Matamata at a place called Crystal Springs. It is in a beautiful rural setting several acres in size which runs down to a small river along one side and farmer's fields on the other. Before the YWAM organization acquired the property it had been a hot springs resort with a giant outdoor pool filled by the thermal waters. However, disaster struck when the river flooded its banks one year contaminating the pool which ended up causing serious illness and a few deaths. It's not hard to figure out what happened to the spa resort. I digress. This is supposed to be a happy story, but as we all know, we cannot experience happy without knowing about sad. Speaking of happy, I just paused momentarily to indulge in a TimTam Slam. A TimTam is a chocolate covered biscuit, rectangular in shape. To do a slam you need a mug of tea and it has to be pretty much full. Step one is to take a very small bite on diagonal corners. Step two is to use it like straw and suck the tea into you mouth. With the tea being hot, and the TimTam being chocolaty with a very fragile wafer in the interior, it begins to collapse what with the heat and wetness of the tea. As a result you need to shove the entire biscuit, which is heavy with tea, melting chocolate and wafer into your mouth immediately (the slam).  If you don't, you have a gooey mess in your fingers and in your tea.  Once you get it right it is heaven in a biscuit. But I digress. This blog entry is supposed to be about Matamata and so I will try to restrict these comments accordingly. Julie and I spent three nights there and it was great to do so as in the past 14 days we had stayed in the same place for more than one night only once, so we were really ready for this change of pace. We knew that Kim would be immediately pulled into her duties and so I have to say that our emotions were high that day. We had had a wonderful time, just the three of us and our arrival at the base was an ending to this joyous time. This was, in retrospect, OK because we immediately saw how happy she was to be there and we saw how warmly she was greeted by all the staff. I think we already knew she was in a good space and a good place, but to see the physical space and to meet and greet the people that up until then were only characters in her narrative really brought it home. But we were right - from the moment we arrived she was off 'doing her thing' and we were left largely to our own devices. This was OK and was in fact a good transition (or weaning) period as we would still enjoy a few Kim encounters each day. We also had the chance to get to know many of the people Kim is working with which was great and it was really interesting to hear the stories of how these people from so many walks of life heard and answered a calling to serve. But again I digress. We still didn't have to do a final goodbye as we will be back in Matamata for our last night in New Zealand and so our departure from the camp was really not that tough - at least nobody cried.